July 31, 2025: The Russians are Coming

The ship has docked, and we went down our long hallway. Our key has a barcode on it that we scan when we leave. It says, “Goodbye”, each time that the scan works!! Imagine hearing that hundreds of times.

We have reached our final northbound stop so we have a few hours to explore.

In Kirkenes, there is an ice hotel that is open all year round, and every hotel room is different. If we’d had another hot day, we might have scheduled a visit.

Kirkenes is very near the Russian border. Signs are written in both in Norwegian and Cyrillic.
This is an old bomb shelter, but I imagine that it is still “operational”. One man told us that since Russia is so near, they must be ready, and they are.

Kirkenes is farther east than Istanbul and is on the same latitude as northern Siberia.

During WWII, Kirkenes was heavily bombed. In 1944 three thousand residents took refuge in one of the tunnels belonging to a mining company. This tunnel was well suited to house a large number of people since the temperature never dropped below freezing. People organized tents and constructed small shelters. A stream of drippings from the ceiling provided some water. Many feared that the Germans would blow the entrance and trap everyone inside.

Midwife Nelly Lund established a small nursery inside. She clad the 12×18 foot walls with quilt and blankets to keep out the cold and provided four beds for the laboring women.

Ten children were born in that tunnel.
The Center City was gearing up for a three-day festival. They were enjoying very warm weather. The temperature was 65⁰F.
I’m not sure what this food truck is selling … or why there is a green skeleton doing “the dap”.
Look at this cute bear cub statue!

John Savio was a Sami artist known for his woodcuts. He was self taught, and his art is of beautiful scenes of this region and its nature.


We started back on the southbound voyage and stopped in Vardø.

There is an impressive star-shaped fortress in Vardø that was built in 1737. I thought that Americans were big flag wavers, but I think that the Norwegians have us beat.

Vardø has Globus 1&2 radars to monitor space. One time during a strong storm, the covers blew off and revealed that the radars were actually pointed toward Russia.

Russians regard the presence of surveillance equipment as a threat.

Long ago Vardø in Finnmark was considered the gate to hell since darkness was prevalent, and storms were violent. It was thought that the Devil lived here.

The Steilneset Memorial was erected in memory of the 91 victims who were convicted of witchcraft and burned at the stake in Finnmark in the 17th century.

A burning chair
125-meter-long memorial hall that conveys the powerful story.
The fate of the victims is described on 91 plaques in the memorial hall. The texts are based on the old court records.

Translation:

  • Anne, Laurits Pedersen’s wife
  • Brought to trial at Kjelvik courthouse on July 13, 1610
  • ACCUSED OF
  • Practice of witchcraft
  • Passed the water test and could not sink at all
  • This was considered a sign from God and a testimony of witchcraft
  • Found guilty of witchcraft
  • Half of her and her husband’s joint estate was to go to the King
  • All legally declared debts of the joint estate were to be paid before the King’s right was exercised
  • Sentenced to be burned at the stake

Often, the float test was used to see if a woman was a witch. Her hands and feet were tied and if she floated in the water, she was a witch and burned at the stake. If she sank, she was not a witch … but she likely drowned.

These are noisy kittiwake.They are smaller but louder than gulls. Each tire has a mother and chick.

This pier has been destroyed 32 times due to bad weather. In the past they transported goods, people, and even cows to the dock. Today the pier is surrounded by tetralocks which seem to be holding.

Mehamn is the northern most harbor in Europe.

Below are creative play structures for children:

These are early lighthouses
when fire was used.

In the even farther north Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard on the island of Spitsbergen, they are not allowed to lock their doors. If a polar bear comes after you, you can run into any house.

If the cold don’t get cha, the polar bear will!!!!!

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