June 10, 2025: House Museums

The Lion is the symbol of Bulgaria.

Shopska Salad is standard restaurant fare. This salad has red tomatoes and green cucumbers topped with white cheese, and is made to resemble their flag.

I asked Rob what he would serve as a nod to our American flag. Strawberries and blueberries topped with whipped cream. Maybe that’s why we are all a little chubby!!

The influential people built on the three hills of Plovdiv although it seems like one. Here is where the richest of the richest lived. These houses are of Ottoman style yet inspired by French architecture and others. Bulgarians, Greeks, Armenians and Turks lived together here. Money has no ethnicity. Some were exempt from taxes.

There were taxes on property, and it was based on the footprint of your house. This is why the second floors are larger. It isn’t tax evasion but rather tax optimization.

There were 51 mosques yet 160 hammams. Cleanliness was a group activity. Hammams are considered the bazaars of gossip. It was the social media and networking of the day. Business was discussed.

HOUSE OF STEPAN HINDLIYAN

Stepan Manuk, an Armenian, was a prominent merchant trading in spices and silks and a farmer whose business frequently sent him as far as India, which is how he earned the nickname of Hindliyan. His exquisite taste affected the construction and the decoration of the house.

The construction of the house was from 1835 to 1840 and has been restored and fitted with Bulgarian Revival period furniture. Stone was only used for mosques, police stations, and hammams. Houses were made of wood.

The Hindliyan House illustrates urban life from the middle of the 19th century.

The facade of the Stepan Hindliyan house, facing the courtyard, has a central portico with wooden columns.
The wooden door at the entrance leads into the big parlor around which several rooms are located. Note Rob in the mirror photo bombing himself.
Bedrooms were spacious and brightly colored.
This marble faucet fountain used to flow constantly with rose water. It isn’t running today, but the entire house smells like roses to this day.
This large dining hall and gathering room was the location of the rose fountain.
The threaded ceilings with geometric ornaments are additionally painted in Oriental style.
There are exterior windows and interior windows. I asked the curator about it thinking that it was for air circulation. He quickly changed my thinking. It was for gossip and eavesdropping, a Bulgarian pastime that continues today.
It took six months to paint the interior and exterior well-preserved murals of beautiful views from Constantinople, Alexandria, Venice, and other cities as well as castles and gardens by seas and mountains.
Rob was captivated by this old phonograph.
Hot and cold running water exist in this hammam. The owner wanted a private hammam to discuss business. The bathroom is of oriental type with domes, arched niches, and marble floor with hypocaust heating (circulated below the floor of a room).

When the Turkish persecution against the Armenians began in 1915, Hindliyan left his house and gave it as a home to Armenian refugees. In 1974, when the house was declared a cultural monument of national importance and started its restoration, there were 23 Armenian families living there.

Balabanov House

The nearby Balabanov House was built in the beginning of the 19th century by a wealthy merchant, usurer, and member of the tailors’ guild. Its last owner, Balabanov, was a merchant of wood.

The house, impressive in size, exemplifies the symmetrical houses from the 19th century, built following the model along the maritime coast of the Bosphorus in Turkey.

The parlors were spacious with lots of seating.
This was a grand piano much larger than the baby grand pianos that I have seen.
Windows and geometric ceilings punctuate this room.

We hiked up to the top of one of the hills of Plovdiv called Nebet Tepe. It contains remains from Stone Age settlements.
Rob sat down to catch his breath while looking over the city of Plovdiv and viewed three of the famous hills of Plovdiv.

This was an eye catching candy store on the Pedestrian walkway called Hans and Gretel. They had every candy that you have ever heard of plus highly decorated donuts and every flavor of ice cream.

We watched a 4½ hour movie (two parts) called Time of Violence (1988) based on the novel Time of Parting by Anton Donchev. The topic was Ottomans attempting to convert the Balkan people to Islam in the Rhodope mountains near Plovdiv. They faced conversion or torturous, painful deaths. The lead Ottoman aggressor was taken by the Ottomans as a Balkan child.  He killed his father and other family members who would not convert. This true story was graphic, and I had nightmares.

We saw this picture of Balkan people living in the Rhodope Mountains and thought that they looked a lot like us.

Wait a minute! Actually, we had a Bulgarian photo shoot. It was a lot of fun, and we learned much about Balkan clothing.

This is a headpiece worn by a bride at the wedding. The mother-in-law made it for her future daughter-in-law. The new bride is to wear it for 40 days.
Here is a current Bulgarian photo shoot and we are TOGETHER!!

One response to “June 10, 2025: House Museums”

  1. Cécile Avatar
    Cécile

    The ancient photo really looks like you ! Incredible ! I read almost all your posts now ! Hope you are fine. Best, Cécile

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