The day started out great. We have been reunited with Rob’s hat and collapsible water bottle thanks to our friend, Antonio.
Now we are off and running (or should I say walking? … uphill!!)
So many buildings were destroyed during the time of communism in the name of atheism. “Religion is the opium of the masses,” says Enver Hoxha.
A special decree by the communists to close all religious activity was followed by the destruction of 740 mosques, 606 orthodox churches and monasteries, 157 catholic churches, and 530 tekkes (Sufi Lodge). The remaining sites were converted into cultural centers for young people.
Some of the houses were spared as culturally significant.
The houses are made from stone, even the roofs. One square meter weighs over 600 pounds. An entire roof can weigh 175 tons. The stones on the roof must be replaced every 5 to 7 years. The government provides the workers. The homeowner purchases any supplies.
Without having any engineering education, the craftsmen learned and managed to pass on their experience and knowledge from generation to generation.
Intricate wooden beam lattices support the stone roofs. These tiles are taken from the nearby mountains.
Fico House
The unique yellow façade makes the Fico House easy to find. Built in 1902, it has been said that the use of the yellow color indicates the family was wealthy.
Skendulati House
The Skenduli house is one of Gjirokastër’s most intricate buildings, combining Ottoman engineering with amazing local architecture and craftsmanship. It was built in 1700 by Skender Skenduli who was a prominent landowner and trader. The house still remains in the family although it is exclusively used as a museum house.
The house has 64 windows, 44 doors, 9 fireplaces and 6 toilets, and 4 hammams.
The entry floor has four cellars for storing food and livestock, one of which served as a sort of refrigerator, as well as a washstand connected to the house’s cistern.
Water running off the roofs would be collected in the structure’s sieve cistern. The first rain collected was for washing the roof.
The kitchen was outside in order to protect the home from any fires that might occur. The dining room consisted of a round low table.
There is a summer room and a winter room for the newlyweds and they reside there until the next son weds.
This home was designated as a UNESCO site. UNESCO does not give any money for upkeep. Our guide is a member of the family. Her father lived here for 34 years. In 1981, the house was confiscated by the communists. They used it as a museum. After the fall of communism, in 1992, the family was able to produce documents to prove that the house belonged to them.
Zekate House
The Chinese built a movie theatre for the people of Gjirokastër but, of course, they only showed communist propaganda. It was closed today but it had a unique feature that we wanted to see. The projector was powered by fire?!?
As we were walking down the street, a restauranteur yelled “Welcome.” Rob responded, “America.” What an unusual thing to say. I asked him what he thought that they said. “Where are you from?” Haha. We will embrace it as a new greeting …. America!!!
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