May 8, 2025: Going West

Today we leave Palermo known as the Noisiest City in Sicily.

As we leave Palermo, there is an obelisk that marks the place the Mafia explosion killed Falcone.

Falcone had found out that the Mafia was like a pyramid. He was on a secret flight. He had escorts. He had been talking with politicians in Rome. There was no investigation about his death. No one knew anything. Everyone was scared. “Why are you asking me? Go ask the policeman.”

Borcelini was also killed in a car bomb. He always carried a red book with names and dates. It has never been found. The state holds it, and it has never been released.

Giovanni Brusca, who was responsible for the bombing, was “found” after thirty-three years. He was “hiding” in his family home in his small village.

When he was “captured”, they had a big parade. Could this be considered a success? He was the most wanted man in the world.

In the years before he was captured, Giovanni Brusca was rewarded by the Mafia who gave him a pension to live happily ever after. He went to Palermo twice a week in a private car for health care … where they surely knew his identity.

The State benefits from the Mafia … not the people. They give their money to the far right at their death.  Giovanni Brusca died after one year of his capture.

Segesta

Segesta is on the west side of the island of Sicily.

This outdoor archaeological site existed in prehistory. They don’t know how far back, but at least as early as the 12th century BC and before Palermo. The veterans of the legendary Trojan War came to settle here.

This temple was never finished. How do they know? There are tabs or projections that protrude from the stones. Removing the tabs is the last and finishing touch.
Can you see Rob?
Incredible acoustics are a Hallmark of a Roman amphitheatre.

Erice

Our first stop was lunch at the PASTICCERIA featuring Maria Grammatico .

We were told that Italians don’t do lines. They just stick their hand in and select their choice. I still think that a line works best. Pesto means not cooked.

Maria is an 85-year-old woman who was an orphan and lived in a convent and worked in the kitchen. Once she left the convent, she took the recipes with her. The nuns were not pleased.

The ricotta in true Sicilian cannoli filling is made with sheep’s milk. Cannoli should be made in front of you. If it is premade, it will be soggy.

She taught us how to make Nun’s Boobs. Hmmm. This requires some research.

Many saints were early martyrs of the Christian faith. St. Agatha is the patron saint of Sicily. At only 20 years old, she died in 251 AD after much torture which included the removal of her breasts. St. Agatha is the patron saint for breast cancer and victims of rape.

The walled little city of Erice is on top of the mountain. It is shaped like a triangle. The triangle is known as the perfect shape. It is holy as it points to the Trinity. It is the most secure for defending, however, they could not see the sea. 

Duomo is the main church of a city. Chiesa Matrice dates back to the beginning of the 14th century with an original fresco dating back to 1420.
This plaque contains a slice of history. It catalogues the miracles that they prayed for and the year. The entries included drought, plagues, wars, etc.
The statue of the virgin Mary was carried around the city while praying for these miracles.

Funny story: In Palermo during COVID, they wanted to parade a statue of their patron saint Rosalie around the city to ask for miraculous protection but could not due to social distance rules. So they had a helicopter fly her around the city!!

The “Edict of Erice” refers to a statement issued in 1989. This statement outlined several recommendations regarding scientific freedom, international cooperation, and nuclear disarmament. 

The Edict of Erice contributed bringing an end of the cold war and currently has 90,000 signatures. Therefore, Erice is known as the City of Science and Peace.

The Famous Battle of Hastings in 1066 lasted one day whereas a takeover of Sicily by the Normans required 30 years, 1061-1091. It took more time to conquer and advance in this hilly region. There were defensive stone castles on every single hill. Because of this, the Normans learned the value of using stone instead of wood to build castles. Their first stone tower was at the Tower of London, constructed in 1070.


Trapani

We were surprised by our guide with a funicular ride down the mountain from Erice to the seaside town of Trapani.

The merry, famous song Funiculì, Funiculà is an advertisement to come ride the first funicular to the summit of Vesuvius. People were afraid of this new invention.

The lyrics tell of a young man, who compares his sweetheart to a volcano and invites her to join him on a romantic walk up to the summit.

It was written in 1880 to mark the opening of the first funicular railway on Mount Vesuvius. It is written in the language of Naples called Neapolitan.

Italian Words

The Sicilian language predates Italian and developed independently. Italian is taught in school and is the official language for all transactions. Sicilian is only spoken. Our guide Andrea is trying to fix that.

  • Prego – a multipurpose word that can mean “you’re welcome” in response to thank you, or “you’re welcome to come in”, or “I am offering this to you”, and probably other meanings
  • Per favore – Please
  • Benvenuto, benvenuta – Welcome
  • Buongiorno! – Good morning, good day
  • Buonasera – Good evening. It seems that Italians switch to buonasera from buongiorno after 2pm, although it is not a strict rule.
  • Buona notte – Good night, when you are departing
  • Grazie – Thank you
  • Ciao, pronounced as “chow”- Hello or bye
  • Arrivederci – Goodbye
  • Scusi, pronounced as “scusi” – Excuse me or call for attention. If you know the person, it is scusa
  • Permesso – let me pass
  • Piano, piano – slowly, slowly
  • Piano also means – floor of a building, instrument, flat surface

They are extremely pleased when you use Italian, even if it is only a couple of words, because you are trying to cross the cultural barrier.


After unification of Italy in 1861, the Italian government, under the influence of liberal and anti-clerical forces, suppressed many religious orders and confiscated their assets. This primarily affected monasteries, convents, and other religious institutions that held significant land and wealth. The goal was to reduce the Church’s power and influence and to redistribute wealth and land.

People were starving by 1866 because there was no more charity. Many people left Sicily. Rarely does one meet an American of Sicilian descent who immigrated before 1861.

In 1943, WWII ended in Sicily with Operation Husky. This is two years before the official end of WWII. The Mafia helped American forces.

Sicily has the most sunny days in all of Europe. Solar and wind produces an abundance of renewable energy in Sicily. Twenty percent of the electricity generated in Sicily goes by cable to the boot of Italy.

The main agricultural products of Sicily are wheat, grapes, and olives. In October, families return for harvest time … mainly olives. Our guide has never purchased olive oil. Abundance from harvests is given to family and friends. During this time, there are many celebrations and festivals.

There are five refineries in Sicily that produce oil for Italy. Sicily is not compensated even though they are left with the pollution.

Canned tuna is a big industry. Archeology shows that tuna fishing has been around for a long time. The one year record for processing is 14,000 tunas. The flavor is best preserved in oil, olive oil preferred. Look for “Made in Sicily” for a real treat.

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