February 14, 2025 – Day 9 – Onto the Ice

Happy Valentine’s Day! We arrived at Horseshoe Island overnight.

This was my first view when I opened the drapes in our room. Sunrise today was at 5:20am. The sun will set at 10:11pm. It gets light earlier in the morning and stays light longer than those times, I think because the sun goes down and comes up at an angle.

Here I am fully suited up. I created a Keep Note list of 17 items to wear or carry with me.

I am wearing most of the rental gear. A pair of binoculars and a cell phone hang around my neck

In the Base Camp area we store our boots in a locker.

I struggled to get my coat, backpack, and life preserver on correctly. I heard comments like “first day of school jitters” and “it takes a village.”

The air temperature is 32º F. The winds are light with a few gusts. Water temperature is 30º F (-1º C).

Three Mile Hike

We boarded the Zodiacs, ten people each,  and motored away from our ship.

The operator attaches a kill cord to their wrist. If he or she falls overboard, that cord shuts off the engine. They say that type of incident has never happened, but our guides have practiced it in this cold water.

After getting out of the Zodiacs, we hiked for 3 miles over rocky terrain to get to a hut.

We saw plants such as moss and lichen on the ground. At times it was difficult to avoid stepping on them.

There are only two flowering plants on the continent, Antarctic hair grass (shown above) and Antarctic pearlwort. They grow in the Antarctic Peninsula, South Orkney Islands, and South Shetland Islands.

The landscape is immense.
The smaller blue pieces of ice are freshwater icebergs that have floated here. The water in the middle of the lake is a thousand feet deep.
See the hut in the background. That is our destination.
We saw a tabular iceberg. Look at the flat side at the bottom of the photo. It’s many feet tall. The iceberg is not part of the hill behind. It broke off and floated here. Larger icebergs longer than 10 nautical miles on any edge get named by the U.S. National Ice Center. This one has no name.
We passed a stream. The red color in the stream is algae.
Birds are scattered around. We saw a Wilson Storm Petrel, a Tern, and some Skuas.
Malachite, a green mineral that contains copper, seeps into the rock and oxidizes.
We saw a number of Adelié penguins. The one on the right is molting. It takes two weeks to molt. They push old feathers out to allow ones underneath to come out. The new feathers aren’t waterproof at first.

We are approaching the hut.

Here’s what it looks like inside.

The Antarctic Treaty of 1991 banned all mining and resource depletion. No dogs are allowed here. It’s a demilitarized area, no weapons. All previous claims to any area of the continent were nullified. Anyone is permitted to go anywhere in Antarctica for research. It was required to tear down any buildings that weren’t being used. The British skirted the rule by declaring this building a historic monument. It is maintained by the United Kingdom Heritage Trust.

What did I learn for the next time out? Wear a stocking cap next time. The cap with a bill kept sliding down over my eyes. I wore only a glove liner and only on my left hand because it’s not so cold, and that made it easier to manage my cell phone camera. Now the right glove liner has gone missing. I hope to find it in one of my pockets.

I started out with sunglasses on. They fogged up slightly. The overcast day was not too bright. So I took them off. Hiking poles were good for this hike, but I won’t bring them if we’re just sitting in the Zodiac.

The British built a polar research vessel in 2016. They had a public contest to select its name. The winning name was “Boaty McBoatface.” The ship was eventually named the RRS Sir David Attenborough, but the name Boaty McBoatface stuck.

Our guide said that there is an Argentine research station nearby. What do they do there? “Nobody knows.” Argentina claims this area. They even brought pregnant women down here to give birth to have “citizens”. The Antarctic Treaty disallows claims of this type.

On overcast days the weather forecasts are accurate. There are fewer microclimates then. We’ve gotten so good at forecasting storms, especially in open water. We can see them coming. The storms move fast, and ships avoid them except in the case of a medical emergency.

My phone shut down suddenly during the hike, probably because it got too cold. Now the photos I take are coming into my Google Photos Camera Roll in some kind of random order. I haven’t figured out why yet.

Motoring Around in a Zodiac

In the afternoon we left the ship again on a Zodiac. This time we rode around for a couple of hours looking at the animals and scenery. Jonas was our guide

We saw a number of Crabeater seals. One submerged beside our boat and hit us with a wave of water.
Two Crabeaters were resting on the iceberg. The gray one in the left is young. They get more brown as they age.
This iceberg has tipped over. It is composed of compressed glacier ice. Air bubbles form the holes as they float up to the surface. The ice in this iceberg is 20,000 or more years old.
There are an infinite number of iceberg shapes and patterns.
The density of the ice causes the blue color. Ice itself has no color. We see the reflection.
A seal came straight up, halfway out of the water, trying to see this Adelié penguin.
Adelié penguins dot the landscape, especially along the shoreline. They are fearful about going into the water because of the Leopard and Crabeater seals.
Here is a colony of Antarctic Cormorants. We saw one furiously flapping his wings as he flew by.

We saw various types of rocks. Gabbro are intrusive igneous rocks that cooled underground. We also saw andesite, and granite among others.

The golden age of exploring in the Antarctic occurred during 1897 to 1922.

In 1895 an international geographic conference was held in London. Not much was understood about this part of the world. They started providing funding to expeditions.

We have left Dagliesh Bay alongside Pourquoi Pas Island. Pourquoi pas means “why not” in French. This island was named after the second-voyage ship of Jean-Baptist Charcot, a famous French polar explorer. One of the bays we sailed through was named after his second wife, Marguerite.

Our goal tomorrow morning is Alexander Island and Lazerev Bay, shown at the bottom left on the map above. It’s only the second time our ship will have gotten this far south at about 69º 50′ south latitude.

Click on this link to read the daily report from our ship – https://www.expeditions.com/expedition-stories/daily-expedition-reports/horseshoe-island-and-pourquoi-pas-island-antarctica-ed-2025-02-14?hmc_lid=3&utm_source=Triggered&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=DER.SELF&email_md5=323649af63a8215a85f9923f6a86435f&mi_u=323649af63a8215a85f9923f6a86435f

2 responses to “February 14, 2025 – Day 9 – Onto the Ice”

  1. Barb Jeffries Avatar
    Barb Jeffries

    What an adventure…the photos are so cool (no pun intended). Thanks for taking us along. Stay safe and don’t fall in or out!

  2. Bstreet Avatar
    Bstreet

    The kill cord is to stop the engine if the operator falling in. What happens if I traveller falls in?

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