May 9, 2024: Where, now??

Rob ALWAYS loves to travel- so much to see, so little time….left!!! 

I heard about a book called America’s Amazon which chronicles the greatest amount of floral and faunal (new word for me) diversity in the USA. I told Rob that I would like to go to the Mobile Delta in Alabama someday.

Rob has an itch to visit nearby Mississippi and to scratch off the last remaining state on his scratch off map. So he went into research mode and put together an 18 day itinerary. He originally wasn’t going to have it be that long but he kept finding more things to explore!! We are retired so we have time!!

Our first stop was Cookeville, TN. They were experiencing a severe thunderstorm with thunder and lightning. We learned on the radio the the city is pronounced Kook-ville.  We felt right at home!!

Right outside Nashville, we started our multi-day journey on the historic Natchez Trace. (Trace is the French word for Trail.)

“The Natchez Trace Parkway… is not a highway, but a long narrow park.” Along 444 miles from Nashville,TN to Natchez, MS, the Natchez Trace goes through Tennessee, Alabama and all the way through Mississippi.

Our first stop was billed as a stunning overlook. Hmmm. I think that we will over look these overlooks.
This old tobacco barn was preserved to demonstrate how tobacco had to be hung up and dried for six months!!
Each stop leads us to fun discoveries.
Our first spotting of the over one trillion cicadas that will emerge this month.
Our informative guide Rick told us that the trail was created by animals such as buffalo, white-tailed deer, turkey, bobcat, raccoon, opossum, fox, coyote, bear and others and used for migration and to get to water or salt licks.

Next, the Native Americans started to follow the paths to hunt the animals using them and for their own transportation.

Later boatmen called kaintucks floated agricultural goods, coal, livestock, etc. down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to markets in Natchez and New Orleans. Once the goods on the boats were sold, the flatboats were useless since they relied on the river currents and were often dismantled and sold as lumber.

From Natchez, the boatmen would begin the long walk home or if they had enough money could buy a horse. It took 20 days by horse and 30 days on foot.

More than 10,000 Kaintucks traveled the Old Trace in the year 1810 alone.

(The Kaintuck period, from 1785 to 1830, marked the heaviest use of the Old Trace. After the steamboat became popular for travel, travel on the Old Trace declined.)

Next came the postal riders in 1800.

One post rider would start from Nashville and the other from Natchez and they would meet in the middle and trade mail bags and turn around and deliver the mail. It would take 14 days. Soon the post deliveries were three runs per day.

Along the way, there were stands which provided food and lodging and sometimes acted as a trading post. The Natives Americans were the only ones with permission to run the stands in exchange for the right to travel through their lands. There was a stand every 20-30 miles.

The Gordon House acted as an inn and also the owner ran a ferry across the Duck River. Very few buildings from this era remain.
A life cut short is evidenced by the cutting off of the pillar on a grave monument. Here lies Merriweather Lewis of Lewis and Clark fame. On an evening, at one of the stands, he commented suicide at the age of 35 likely caused by poor health and finances.

Traveling the Trace was not for the faint of heart. This “snake-infested, mosquito-beset, robber-haunted, Indian-traveled forest path was lamented by the pious, cussed by the impious, and tried everyone’s strength and patience.”

If you look at a map of the USA at this time, the yellow area was called the Southwest which makes sense as that was the southwest of our nation. Later it would be called the Old Southwest to distinguish it from the Southwest we know of as Arizona and New Mexico. Finally it is now the southeast United States. Or Deep South or Gulf States. The area above was referred to as Northwest. That is why the university founded in 1850 in Chicago is called Northwestern University.
The Natchez Trace was THE national road. Even soldiers travelling to and from battles marched these trails with Andrew Jackson during the War of 1812.

Tonight we stay in Lawrenceburg where many horse driven carriages of Amish can be seen. What a surprise! Apparently in 1941, Amish from Ohio and Pennsylvania came here seeking good farmland. Others came from Mississippi. They request no pictures.

We ate at a Mexican Restaurant. We always try to practice our Spanish. We ran out of chips but I didn’t know how to say chips. I asked our long-suffering waiter,”¿Como se dice chips?” He said, “Chips!” We all had a good laugh.

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