Thursday, January 11, 2024: Day 339 – Bay of Islands: Birthplace of New Zealand

Today we are sailing on a tall ship around the Bay of Islands. There are 144 islands of which most are undeveloped. When Captain Cook first sailed through here, he commented that the sound of birds was deafening. Today they are welcoming the birds back by keeping about half of the islands uninhabited.

From Paihia we take a ferry across the bay to a town called Russell. Every place that we go has an English name and a Māori name. The Māori name of Russell is Kororāreka which means Tasty Sweet Penguin. Since I speak English, it is easier to say Russell which is my brother’s name!!!

We were given the chance to climb the rigging to the top of the boat. Do you see Rob?
He is hooked onto the ropes for fall prevention.
I was more about the rope swing. I launched from the ship into the beautiful blue water. In 2006 it was determined that the Bay of Islands has the second most blue sky in the world behind Rio de Janeiro.
Roberton Island (Motuarohia Island) was the first island that Captain Cook landed on. He encountered the Māori. I am sure that they didn’t know what to make of each other … especially if they greeted him with a Haka!!!
What a view! Our doubled masted sailboat is the largest one. We anchored and tendered to the shore for exploration.

Our boat R. Tucker Thompson is mostly used for youth development. They take teens out for a week to learn teamwork through sailing. We had a great lunch onboard prepared by the teen volunteers. Food sure tastes awesome when eaten outdoors.

Our journey ended in Russell where we spent the rest of the day exploring. It was the first permanent European settlement and seaport in New Zealand. It is like OUR Jamestown!!

Christ Church is the oldest church in New Zealand and was built in 1835. One famous donor was Charles Darwin. It is surrounded by a cemetery. The inscriptions are very interesting; some in English and some in Māori. All tombstones are very old.
Inside, the pew pads consist of individual needlepoint pillows.
This fig tree was massive and was planted in the 1870’s.
We start to climb to the highest point in Russell called Flagstaff Hill.

This is the site of an early conflict between the Māori and the British called the Flagstaff Wars. In 1844 a British Flag was erected at the top of the hill. The flagstaff was cut down. The flagstaff was replaced and troops sent to guard the flagstaff. The flagstaff was cut down a second time. Next, a flagstaff sheathed in iron was erected. The next morning the flagstaff was cut down again.

The final attack on the flagstaff was a much more serious incident. Māori warriors attacked the guard post, killing all the defenders and the flagstaff was cut down for the fourth time. At the same time, the Māori attacked the town of Russell which was the beginning of the Flagstaff War. In 1846 peace terms were agreed upon and the British did not re-erect the flagstaff again, fearing to provoke further conflict.

However, in 1858, a fifth flagstaff was erected by the Māori as a symbol of goodwill. It remains today.

After a delicious dinner at The Duke of Marlborough overlooking the bay, we headed back to Paihia. Seafood is definitely the order of the day. Not only is there a Catch of the Day. If you catch it, they will prepare it.

Is the BYOF???

2 responses to “Thursday, January 11, 2024: Day 339 – Bay of Islands: Birthplace of New Zealand”

  1. Amy Street Avatar

    Also the climbing and rope swinging on the boat looks fun!

  2. Amy Street Avatar

    It’s interesting hearing about the history. Very well written!

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